Food and wine pairing
Venison fillet, poivrade sauce with black truffle and Clos des Étoiles
When the hunting season opens in the forests of the Haut-Languedoc and the first black truffles arrive at the region’s markets, the festive table can welcome its noblest dish. A seared venison fillet, a long-reduced poivrade sauce and a few slivers of truffle: it called for a great red. Clos des Étoiles, a barrel-aged Syrah from a plateau of scree studded with white stones, rises to the occasion.
The recipe
Venison fillet, poivrade sauce and celeriac purée with black truffle
Serves 4Preparation 45 minCooking 2 hr
Ingredients
- 800 g trimmed venison fillet (trimmings and crushed bones reserved, about 400 g)
- 30 g fresh black truffle (Tuber melanosporum)
- Poivrade: 1 carrot
- 1 onion
- 1 shallot
- 50 cl full-bodied red wine
- 5 cl red wine vinegar
- 40 cl veal or game stock
- 12 black peppercorns, crushed
- 3 juniper berries, crushed
- 1 sprig of thyme, 1 bay leaf
- Purée: 600 g celeriac
- 20 cl whole milk
- 70 g butter
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- Fleur de sel, freshly ground pepper
Method
- 1
Make the poivrade sauce: cut the carrot, onion and shallot into small dice. Brown the trimmings and bones in 2 tablespoons of olive oil until well coloured, about 10 minutes, then add the vegetables and brown for 5 minutes.
- 2
Deglaze with the vinegar and reduce almost to dryness. Pour in the red wine, add the thyme, bay leaf and juniper, and reduce by two thirds.
- 3
Add the stock, bring to a simmer and cook for 1 hour over a low heat, skimming. Add the crushed pepper only 10 minutes before the end, so that it does not turn bitter.
- 4
Strain the sauce through a chinois, pressing well, then reduce until it coats the back of a spoon. Set aside.
- 5
Make the purée: peel the celeriac, cut into cubes and cook for 25 minutes in the milk topped up with water to cover, salted. Drain, keeping a little liquid, blend with 40 g of butter and adjust the consistency.
- 6
Gently brush the truffle. Grate half into the hot purée and cut the rest into thin slivers.
- 7
Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Take the fillet out of the fridge 30 minutes beforehand and season with salt. Sear in a very hot frying pan with the rest of the oil and 10 g of butter, 2 minutes on each side.
- 8
Roast for 6 to 8 minutes for pink meat (52 to 54 °C at the core), then leave to rest for 10 minutes under a sheet of foil.
- 9
Reheat the sauce and, off the heat, whisk in the remaining 20 g of butter.
- 10
Slice the fillet into thick medallions, arrange on the truffled celeriac purée, coat with poivrade sauce and finish with the truffle slivers.
Why this pairing works
Clos des Étoiles
Venison has fine, lean meat with a wild flavour; the poivrade gives it depth, pepper and juniper; the black truffle, an earthy, deep note. Clos des Étoiles, made almost entirely from Syrah (95%, completed by 5% Grenache) from vines averaging 35 years old, unfolds a complex bouquet of tobacco, spices, liquorice, violet and blackberry. The spices and liquorice converse with the poivrade, the blackberry with the game, the tobacco with the truffle. Its velvety tannic structure, brought by barrel ageing, envelops lean meat without drying it out, and its significant length carries the sauce for a long time: a pairing consistent with the game dishes suggested for this wine.
If you have no fresh truffle, serve the venison with pan-fried ceps: the pairing with Clos des Étoiles keeps its autumnal, woodland register.
Page updated on 19 October 2026


